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Von Ruacana nach Epupa verläuft die Strecke entlang des Kunene, dem Grenzfluss zwischen Angola und Namibia.

Für diese mit vielen spitzen Steinen durchsetzte Gravel Road senken wir wieder den Reifendruck. Die Straße führt über steile Hügel und sie ist in einem guten Zustand. Nur an den steilsten Abschnitten ist sie etwas ruppig. Wir kommen durch einige Himbasiedlungen und die Leute winken freundlich oder gehen einfach ihres Weges.

Heute wollen wir direkt am Kunene übernachten. Von der Abzweigung bis zum Fluss tuckern wir im Low-Gear über tiefe Auswaschungen und Stock und Stein. Der Stellplatz ist dafür sehr nett. Auf der Sandbank am Kunene Fluss haben schon Einheimische ihr Lager aufgeschlagen, die hier fischen. Daher bleiben wir etwas oberhalb am Ufer stehen.

Lange Schatten am Nachmittag Kunene River

Als wir nächsten Morgen das Frühstück vorbereiten, kommt ein Einheimischer von der Sandbank zu uns herauf. Er grüßt freundlich und fragt, ob wir ihm Salz geben können. Wir sind verblüfft, dass er so etwas spezielles möchte. Wir sehen es als Nachbarschaftshilfe unter Nomaden und geben ihm einen kleinen Haufen in einer Serviette mit. Er bedankt sich freundlich und geht wieder. Eigentlich eine nette Begegnung. Kein Betteln im eigentlichen Sinn, sondern Aushelfen in der Wildnis.

Der weitere Weg nach Epupa führt durch einen Mopane-Wald, der in herbstlichen Farben strahlt. Bald kommen andere Bäume dazu. Es geht bergauf und bergab, über einen Hügel nach dem anderen, immer am Kunene entlang. Auf jedem Hügel bietet sich ein neuer Ausblick, der uns staunen lässt. Eine wunderbare Landschaft.

Unterwegs am Kunene River

Unterwegs am Kunene River

In Epupa checken wir in der Epupa Lodge & Campsite ein. Sie ist teuer, aber schön angelegt, gepflegt und liegt direkt an den Epupa Wasserfällen. Erste Reihe fußfrei. Wir bekommen sogar einen Stellplatz direkt am Wasser, obwohl wir nicht gebucht haben. Mittlerweile ist Ferienzeit in Namibia und Südafrika und da können die schönen Stellplätze schon mal knapp werden.

Netter Stellplatz unter Palmen

Die Epupa Fälle sind zum Greifen nahe

Am späten Nachmittag, als die Sonne tiefer steht, besichtigen wir die Wasserfälle. Wir passieren ein paar Souvenirstände und gelangen zum Wasserfall, der unserem Camp am nächsten liegt. Wir können bis zur Klippe vorgehen. Aber Vorsicht, bloß keinen falschen Schritt machen. Im Hintergrund leuchtet ein Regenbogen in der Gischt.

Die Epupa Wasserfälle 

Wir gehen weiter flussabwärts. Es tun sich immer neue Ausblicke auf. Die Epupa Wasserfälle bestehen aus vielen einzelnen Wasserfällen und Stromschnellen, über die der Kunene die Höhendifferenz überwindet. Dazwischen wachsen große Baobab. Im Licht der untergehenden Sonne ist die Landschaft sehr beeindruckend.

Der Kunene muss durch eine enge Schlucht

Zwischen den Stromschnellen stehen große Baobab

Wir gehen bis zum letzten Aussichtspunkt entlang der Schlucht und gehen dann langsam den Weg zurück, den wir gekommen sind.

Zurück am Stellplatz machen wir Lagerfeuer und braten unsere Boerewors. Als Beilage essen wir Tomatensalat und Kartoffelsalat. Wir genießen den Abend am Lagerfeuer. Es ist überraschend heiß hier. Ein heißer, trockener Wind weht vom Land auf den Fluss hinaus. Dabei sind wir nur ca 150 km vom letzten Stellplatz entfernt, wo es in der Nacht bitterkalt war.

Für den nächsten Morgen haben wir frisches Brot bei der Camingplatzköchin bestellt. Mit afrikanischer Pünktlichkeit und gerade rechtzeitig zum Kaffee wird ein frischer Wecken Brot geliefert. Was für ein toller Service.

Sonnenaufgang über dem Kunene 

Danach packen wir zusammen, und fahren Richtung Opuwo. Die Piste ist teilweise heftiges Wellblech mit spitzen Steinen, also runter vom Gas.

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  • SELECT `a`.`id`,`a`.`asset_id`,`a`.`title`,`a`.`alias`,`a`.`introtext`,`a`.`fulltext`,`a`.`state`,`a`.`catid`,`a`.`created`,`a`.`created_by`,`a`.`created_by_alias`,`a`.`modified`,`a`.`modified_by`,`a`.`checked_out`,`a`.`checked_out_time`,`a`.`publish_up`,`a`.`publish_down`,`a`.`images`,`a`.`urls`,`a`.`attribs`,`a`.`version`,`a`.`ordering`,`a`.`metakey`,`a`.`metadesc`,`a`.`access`,`a`.`hits`,`a`.`metadata`,`a`.`featured`,`a`.`language`,`fp`.`featured_up`,`fp`.`featured_down`,`c`.`title` AS `category_title`,`c`.`alias` AS `category_alias`,`c`.`access` AS `category_access`,`c`.`language` AS `category_language`,`fp`.`ordering`,`u`.`name` AS `author`,`parent`.`title` AS `parent_title`,`parent`.`id` AS `parent_id`,`parent`.`path` AS `parent_route`,`parent`.`alias` AS `parent_alias`,`parent`.`language` AS `parent_language`,ROUND(`v`.`rating_sum` / `v`.`rating_count`, 1) AS `rating`,`v`.`rating_count` AS `rating_count` FROM `jo4_content` AS `a` INNER JOIN `jo4_categories` AS `c` ON `c`.`id` = `a`.`catid` LEFT JOIN `jo4_content_frontpage` AS `fp` ON `fp`.`content_id` = `a`.`id` LEFT JOIN `jo4_users` AS `u` ON `u`.`id` = `a`.`created_by` LEFT JOIN `jo4_categories` AS `parent` ON `parent`.`id` = `c`.`parent_id` LEFT JOIN `jo4_content_rating` AS `v` ON `a`.`id` = `v`.`content_id` WHERE ( (`a`.`id` = :pk AND `c`.`published` > 0) AND (`a`.`publish_up` IS NULL OR `a`.`publish_up` <= :publishUp)) AND (`a`.`publish_down` IS NULL OR `a`.`publish_down` >= :publishDown) AND `a`.`state` IN (:preparedArray1,:preparedArray2)99μs22.63KBParams/components/com_content/src/Model/ArticleModel.php:215Copy
  • SELECT `a`.`id`,`a`.`asset_id`,`a`.`title`,`a`.`alias`,`a`.`introtext`,`a`.`fulltext`,`a`.`state`,`a`.`catid`,`a`.`created`,`a`.`created_by`,`a`.`created_by_alias`,`a`.`modified`,`a`.`modified_by`,`a`.`checked_out`,`a`.`checked_out_time`,`a`.`publish_up`,`a`.`publish_down`,`a`.`images`,`a`.`urls`,`a`.`attribs`,`a`.`version`,`a`.`ordering`,`a`.`metakey`,`a`.`metadesc`,`a`.`access`,`a`.`hits`,`a`.`metadata`,`a`.`featured`,`a`.`language`,`fp`.`featured_up`,`fp`.`featured_down`,`c`.`title` AS `category_title`,`c`.`alias` AS `category_alias`,`c`.`access` AS `category_access`,`c`.`language` AS `category_language`,`fp`.`ordering`,`u`.`name` AS `author`,`parent`.`title` AS `parent_title`,`parent`.`id` AS `parent_id`,`parent`.`path` AS `parent_route`,`parent`.`alias` AS `parent_alias`,`parent`.`language` AS `parent_language`,ROUND(`v`.`rating_sum` / `v`.`rating_count`, 1) AS `rating`,`v`.`rating_count` AS `rating_count` FROM `jo4_content` AS `a` INNER JOIN `jo4_categories` AS `c` ON `c`.`id` = `a`.`catid` LEFT JOIN `jo4_content_frontpage` AS `fp` ON `fp`.`content_id` = `a`.`id` LEFT JOIN `jo4_users` AS `u` ON `u`.`id` = `a`.`created_by` LEFT JOIN `jo4_categories` AS `parent` ON `parent`.`id` = `c`.`parent_id` LEFT JOIN `jo4_content_rating` AS `v` ON `a`.`id` = `v`.`content_id` WHERE ( (`a`.`id` = :pk AND `c`.`published` > 0) AND (`a`.`publish_up` IS NULL OR `a`.`publish_up` <= :publishUp)) AND (`a`.`publish_down` IS NULL OR `a`.`publish_down` >= :publishDown) AND `a`.`state` IN (:preparedArray1,:preparedArray2)100μs27.13KBParams/components/com_content/src/Model/ArticleModel.php:215Copy
  • SELECT SUM(CASE WHEN `a`.`next_execution` <= :now THEN 1 ELSE 0 END) AS due_count,SUM(CASE WHEN `a`.`locked` IS NULL THEN 0 ELSE 1 END) AS locked_count FROM `jo4_scheduler_tasks` AS `a` WHERE `a`.`state` = 1120μs1.32KBParams/administrator/components/com_scheduler/src/Model/TasksModel.php:517Copy
  • SELECT `value` FROM jo4_acym_configuration WHERE `name` LIKE "%regacy" OR `name` LIKE "%\_sub"24μs640B/plugins/system/acymtriggers/acymtriggers.php:434Copy
  • SHOW FULL TABLES WHERE table_type="BASE TABLE"425μs1.91KB/libraries/vendor/joomla/database/src/Mysqli/MysqliDriver.php:635Copy
  • SELECT * FROM jo4_acym_plugin49μs1.66KB/administrator/components/com_acym/Core/joomla/database.php:36Copy
  • SELECT * FROM jo4_acym_plugin30μs1.66KB/administrator/components/com_acym/Core/joomla/database.php:36Copy
  • SELECT `groups`.*, `groups`.title AS text, `groups`.id AS `value` FROM jo4_usergroups AS `groups`30μs1.02KB/administrator/components/com_acym/Core/joomla/database.php:36Copy
  • SELECT `c`.`id`,`c`.`asset_id`,`c`.`access`,`c`.`alias`,`c`.`checked_out`,`c`.`checked_out_time`,`c`.`created_time`,`c`.`created_user_id`,`c`.`description`,`c`.`extension`,`c`.`hits`,`c`.`language`,`c`.`level`,`c`.`lft`,`c`.`metadata`,`c`.`metadesc`,`c`.`metakey`,`c`.`modified_time`,`c`.`note`,`c`.`params`,`c`.`parent_id`,`c`.`path`,`c`.`published`,`c`.`rgt`,`c`.`title`,`c`.`modified_user_id`,`c`.`version`, CASE WHEN CHAR_LENGTH(`c`.`alias`) != 0 THEN CONCAT_WS(':', `c`.`id`, `c`.`alias`) ELSE `c`.`id` END as `slug` FROM `jo4_categories` AS `s` INNER JOIN `jo4_categories` AS `c` ON (`s`.`lft` <= `c`.`lft` AND `c`.`lft` < `s`.`rgt`) OR (`c`.`lft` < `s`.`lft` AND `s`.`rgt` < `c`.`rgt`) WHERE (`c`.`extension` = :extension OR `c`.`extension` = 'system') AND `c`.`access` IN (:preparedArray1) AND `c`.`published` = 1 AND `s`.`id` = :id ORDER BY `c`.`lft`99μs4.09KBParams/libraries/src/Categories/Categories.php:375Copy
  • SELECT `session_id` FROM `jo4_session` WHERE `session_id` = ?92μs1.21KBParams/libraries/vendor/joomla/session/src/Handler/DatabaseHandler.php:277Copy
  • UPDATE `jo4_session` SET `data` = ? , `time` = ? WHERE `session_id` = ?585μs704BParams/libraries/vendor/joomla/session/src/Handler/DatabaseHandler.php:301Copy